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Building A Partition Wall 2

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Once the outer framework of the stud wall has been installed, attention can be turned to filling in the framework and dry walling. Make a final check the labels of the frame and its positioning, because any slight adjustments are best made at this stage rather than later.

Filling The Frame

  1. Measure each vertical stud and cut the required lengths. Fix them at the base, holding them against the block supports to prevent them from moving. Use 10cm nails and knock or skew them in at angles on both sides of the stud, so that the fixingspenetrate into the sole plate.
  2. with the stud fixed at its base, hold a level against the length in order to find the precise vertical fixing position in the head plate. Skew the nails into each side of the stud and into the head plate.
  3. Keep checking the level and adjusting the stud until it is precisely vertical, before securing it finally in place.
  4. To make the door frame, cut a length of timber to the exact size between the two vertical studs on either side of the door opening. Remember to check the correct height measurement for the door including the door lining, and nail the length in place, ensuring that it is level.
  5. To add strength, fix a further length vertically between the door head and the head plate. Nails may be inserted into the base of this vertical stud, whereas at ceiling level the nails need to be skewed through the vertical length, into the head plate.
  6. Extra strength will need to be added to the full length studs, so cut short lengths of timber to fit horizontally between them. These noggings should be positioned half way between the sole and head plates.
  7. Once you have completed the framework, work on providing access for all services or electrical cables that may need to run through the wall. Drill holes through studs and noggings as required.
  8. Thread cables through the holes drilled in the studs. (Check with a qualified electrician the exact cable requirements for the services you require).

Fixing the drywall

Ensure that you are using the correct depth of drywall according to the position of the studs. Bear in mind that if you are planning to use dry lining, the drywall should also be tapered edges.

Invariably, sheets of drywall need to be cut to fit so careful measuring is required. As most ceilings or wall surfaces undulate slightly and are not completely square, the edge of drywall sheets will often need to be scribed in order to produce a precise fit. This is most important at ceiling level and corners because the joint needs to be tight as possible, whereas at floor level there is some leeway because skirting board will cover the joint

  1. Holding the drywall sheet as close to the ceiling as possible, slide a small wooden block and pencil along the sheet, keeping the block resting against the ceiling surface. The pencil guideline produced all thereby mimic the profile of the ceiling, providing a guideline to cut the drywall for the perfect fit.
  2. Use drywall nails to fix the sheets in place, fixings should be made between 12mm and 25mm from the board edges and at 15cm intervals or centres along the edge and studs. Fix drywall around a door opening so that the joint is at the centre of the door. Although this is technically more difficult to measure and cut, after dry lining or plastering, a central board join such as this will be less likely to crack and joints than run vertical from the door opening corners.
  3. When one side of the wall is completely covered, drill the necessary holes in the drywall for any electrical cables. Then, before drywalling the other side of the stud wall, install insulation blankets between all studs, finally drywall the wall ready for plastering and dealing with the door opening.

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Tips of the trade

Although it is often easier and more practical to have two people fixing drywall, it can be achieved while working on your own with the aid of a board lifter, this allows you to leave drywall sheets into position on the wall surface, while leaving your hands free for fixing purposes.

Tips of the trade

Extra noggings – Fix extra noggings between studs where heavy items are to be fixed on the wall surface. For example, ensure that an extra logging is positioned to accommodate fixings for such fittings as sinks or basins.
Flush joints – when positioning all the studs and mouldings, take extra care to ensure that the surfaces of all the particular joints are flush. Uneven joints may cause bows in the drywall, making fixings difficult and causing weak spots.
Secure nailing – When knocking in drywall nails, ensure that their heads are slightly below the surface level for secure fixing, but not so far that the head of the nail causes the drywall to crumble and reduces the strength of the fixing.
Screwing alternatives – Drywall screws instead of nails can be used to fix drywall. This is can often be easier when working on your own and reduces the risk of damaging drywall with hammer blows.
Marking off – It can be difficult to locate the exact position of the studs when drywalling and, as the drywall itself is covering them. So when the stud framework has been completed, mark where the centre of each stud is located on the floor with the pencil. Then use a level to draw pencil guideline on each board from the floor to the ceiling as you work.

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